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		 Marquis Tutorial
		
		 
  
    | For proper alignment, make sure that your bottom tray is
      loaded into the base with the X on the left side. When pressing, also make
      sure
      that
      the
      X on
      the
      top of the tool is towards the left. |   
    |  |  |  
    |  | Lay down your initial footprint and check the size by either bringing
        the mandrel down to the base of the tool for reference, or the handle
        portion of the tool up under your mandrel. It is better estimate smaller
        at first because you can always add more to the footprint. Once it's
        on, you cannot take it off. |  
    |  |  |  
    |  | If you have followed our tip about determining 
	how
        much glass you need for the cavity, you will know how much glass to 
	wind onto your mandrel. The beads should be a slim bicone with narrow ends 
	and plump center. |  
    |  |  |  
    |   | Do not press when soupy and fully molten. Wait for your glass to start
        to slightly 'form a skin' (don't wait too long or you won't be able to
        press) and then let it start to settle into the bottom of the tool so
        it doesn't slide around when pressing. While centered over the
        cavity, press straight down
        while
        steadying
        the
        tool against the back wall and left pole of the mold. |  
    |  |  |  
    | 
	 | Fire polish away any chill marks on the surface. If you like crisper
        edges, be sure
        to
        keep your flame on the faces of the bead, not the edges. If you like
        more rounded
      edges, shoot them with some heat and they'll start to round for you. |   
    | 
		 
		Bead by
	Gina Beardsley | 
		 Beads by
	Lori Greenberg
 |  |