Cross Tutorial
|
|
Lay down your initial footprint of a thin barrel. This one is
about 30mm or 1-1/8" and 5mm in diameter. The length may vary
depending on how big you want your cross to be.
|
|
The next step is to make your barrel the the final size you will want
it before pressing. This will be the long portion of the cross. If
you can put the initial footprint down in that size, that works too. This
is something that you will get more familiar with as you practice more. For
the 1/4" VersaCube shown here, I have about a 7mm diameter barrel. |
|
As shown above, kind of eyeball where you will want the cross section
to be and then wind on a band of glass in that section. Again,
this will be a matter of preference as to the proportions you like.
Once you get your band on, carefully heat the whole thing until it is
molten enough to press.
|
| |
|
|
Bring mandrel down to the bottom part of the tool and center your
band right where the cross portions meet.
It may take a little practice to make sure the whole mass stays hot
enough to press since the ends cool faster because they are so thin.
|
|
Allow the band to begin to settle into the bottom of the
tool While centered over the cavity as shown above and then press straight
down while steadying the tool against the back wall and left pole of
the mold.
|
|
Because of the nature of molten glass wanting to spread and a tool that
wants to make a sharp edges, you will get webbing at the corners of your
cross. This is easy to fix! |
|
It is best to use a paddle or block marver that has a 90 degree corner
because you can work both sides at the same time with that, but any marver
will work to press the webbing back in.
Gently spot heat the corner with the web and press it against your marver. |
| |
|
|
Do this for all 4 corners. |
| |
|
|
You will notice that the arms of your cross are rounded. You
may choose to leave them this way or you can use the same motion with
your marver to flatten them up. |
|
|
