The Scratching Post
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Lay down your initial footprint approximately 1mm shy of the edges of the cavity on both sides. You can check the size by either bringing the mandrel down to the base of the tool for reference, or the handle portion of the tool up under your mandrel. It is better to estimate smaller at first because you can always add more to the footprint. Once it's on, you cannot take it off.

If you've followed our tip about determining how much glass you need for the cavity, you will know about how much glass to wind onto your mandrel. The picture shows the suggested shape before pressing. It is almost round, but slightly tapered to the ends. If you have pointy ends, that is not a problem, as long as they don't extend past the cavity edges.

Do not press when soupy and fully molten. Wait until your glass starts to slightly 'form a skin' (don't wait too long or you won't be able to press). Allow your glass to begin to settle into the bottom of the tool so it doesn't slide around too much when you begin to press.

While centered over the cavity as shown above, press straight down while steadying the tool against the back wall and left pole of the mold.

The pressing motion will take care of the pointy ends. You might notice that the cooling of the glass from being in contact with the tools will cause the surface to pull in slightly.

As you can see above, there are chill marks that show up more due to the nice flat surface. It is well worth the little extra time it takes to fire polish them away! If you like crisper edges, be sure to keep your flame on the faces of the bead, not the edges.

You can see that it does that neat bowing in that is due the the smooth flat surface too. It gives them such a sensual feel!