Triangle & Shield Tutorial
This tool requires that you be able to roll a cone shape before
pressing.
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Lay down your initial footprint and check the size by either bringing
the mandrel down to the base of the tool for reference, or the handle
portion of the tool up under your mandrel. It is better to estimate smaller
at first because you can always add more to the footprint. Once it's
on, you cannot take it off.
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If you've followed our tip about determining
how
much glass you need for the cavity, you will know about how much
glass to wind onto your mandrel. The picture shows the suggested cone
shape before pressing.
Do not press when soupy and fully molten. Wait until your glass starts
to slightly 'form a skin' (don't wait too long or you won't be able to
press). Allow your glass to begin to settle into the bottom of the tool so
it doesn't slide around too much when you begin to press. |
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While centered over the cavity as
shown above, press straight down
while
steadying
the
tool against the back wall and left pole of the mold.
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You might notice that the cooling of the glass from being in contact
with the tools will cause "chill marks" on the surface of your
bead. You can either flame polish or leave it as it is. To keep
the faceted look, try to fire polish one facet at a time.
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If any extra has seeped out the edges you can gently heat and tap them
with your marver to coax them back into position. |
